Tips & Mods Blade CX / CX2 Lama V3 / V4 Blade CP / CP Pro Honey Bee CP2

Tips & Mods

This is a compiled list of tips and modifications to get better
performance out of you RC helicopters.
Much of this info is also found on the major RC forums and things we
have discovered ourselves. Our thanks goes out to all those that
helped us and the other beginners in those forums for this
information. We have just put it all in one place to make your life a bit
easier There is alway more information being added to the forums so
as we find it, we will add it here.

Blade CX / CX2

Blade CX CX2, Lama V3 V4

THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP OF ALL: If you are about to crash, cut throttle ASAP. Best is if you know your
going down, just cut power and let it hit, a couple of blades and a skid or 2 is ALOT less expensive than the
4 in 1 when it blows the speed control chip. Blade CX2 4 in 1 is even more than the 4 in 1 for the original
Blade CX or Lama V3 / V4.

Battery tip: The stock chargers are good, but do not charge packs fully. Best way to remedy this without
spending the money for a more expensive charging system is to charge your packs as normal, then allow
to site for around 30 mins then reattach to the charger. This will put more charge to the pack increasing
flight time. ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, do not run packs below 3V per cell. We will have a voltage warning
unit avaiallbel soon to help this, however easiest way to tell when its time to land, watch how much throttle
you are having to give the helicopter for hover, when you start to notice you have to give more nad more
throttle to stay up, bring in immediately. If you discharge the batteries to low more than a time or 2, the
battery will be ruined and need replacement

This is a Mod and Tip to bring some truth to the "Upgrades" Situation: Shortening and Lightening your
flybar is about the most effective upgrade you can purchase/make. Adds performance do to the increased
head speed as well as make the Blade CX / CX2, Lama V3 / V4 more agile. Another perk is that a shorter
flybar is a quick way to greatly reduce the blade strike problem. Cant say it gets rid of it because it can still
happen, rare but can, but it does save a ton on blades. A quick way to make on of these, not the best, but
works well, is to remove stock weights, cut flybar down making sure the length is the EXACT same on both
sides, and using the flybar weights that you can purchase for the Blade CP Pro, also making sure the
weights are evenly spaced from the center and the flybar is balanced.

This info makes the Blade CX / CX2 and Lama V3 / V4 so much more fun to fly. Allows for straight and level
high speed forward flight and even 180 stall turns WITHOUT EVER HAVING TO BUY A NEW PART. Simply
move the servo links on the forward servo put 1 - 2 holes (2 holes only recommended for experienced
pilots as the Blade CX / CX2 can actually do a mild nose dive if not properly controlled). For the Steering, on
the Blade CX, no real reason to move out a hole but on the CX2 it is helpful to move out 1 HOLE. Beyond that
it becomes difficult to trim for the stable hover the Blade CX2 is known for. For the Lama V3, only one hole
seems to be effective on foward. To achieve the forward flight and 180 stall turns. Start in a hover out of
ground effect. Quick move the right stick all the way forward and increase throttle (max throttle is easily
usable but be careful so you don't go nose first into the ground). To add the 180 stall turn, during fast
forward flight, release the right stick, the nose of the Blade CX /CX2, Lama V3 / V4 will pitch up hard, almost
vertical, when it does this, quickly move the left stick to the right or left to quickly rotate the nose down. For
skilled pilots, right after the nose rotates down, go to forward and increase throttle again. JUST WATCH IT,
QUICK NOSE DIVE IF TO MUCH FORWARD CYCLIC IS GIVEN.

Blade CX / CX2

Blade CP Pro, Honey Bee CP2

Now these helis get interesting as there is a lot out there for them in upgrade parts which fix most issues.
We do have a couple tips that make the Blade CP / CP Pro and Honey Bee CP2 much easier to fly.

These are 2 things that make it so much easier to control and are easy to undo once you have become used
to how the Blade CP / CP Pro flies. One is to use the flybar weights like they tell you in the manual. The heli
still has its performance but is not near as touchy. Secondly, move all three servo links in one hole, this
makes the Blade CP / CP Pro actually able to be flown by those of us that haven't been flying helis for 20+
yrs. I learned this one on my own and went from hating the Blade CP Pro to the point it went on ebay, ( I did
the mod to help the buyer out, as he had never flow a heli before, and test flew before I shipped it) and now I
regret selling it and plan to buy another one SOON.

INVEST IN A BLADE BALANCER AND ONLY USE EFLITE BLADES UNLESS YOU ARE EXPERIENCED WITH USING
AFTERMARKET BLADES AS SOME REQUIRE SPACERS AND SO FORTH TO GAIN PROPER BLADE TRACKING.
The best blades to use when learning is just the stock wooden ones, cheap to replace and are 99.9%
balanced right away so you can actually use the blades without balancing them.

At the very least, get a larger heat sink for the tail motor, you'll thank me later when you are replacing
motors less than the people that just buy n fly. There are a number of ways to improve the tail set up, but if
you go brushless, only belt drive or direct drive tail motor are going to be able to hold the tail decently.

Quick Info: I know some pilots out there like their stock or after-market full bodies on their helis, well thats
fine except if you want to fly outdoors, the carbon fiber booms with fins (smaller and lighter is better) make
the task of flying a Blade CX / CX2 outdoors much easier because the boom is much less affected by any
wind where as the full body will get blown like a leaf in the smallest breeze.

Lama V3 / V4

Cheap 4 in 1 saving mod: Must have skills with a soldering iron for this. Go to the auto part store and pick
up a pack of the 5amp mini fuses. Little 2 prong fuses. On each of the motors, cut the hot wire (red) that is
Polarity on a fuse doesn't matter. Do this for both motors on your Blade CX / CX2, Lama V3 / V4. This will
make it so the fuse blows before the 4 in 1. This is NOT a 100% fix, but there has been NO KNOWN 4 in 1
failure once this mod has been done.

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The "Toilet Bowl" Problem: Many things can cause this, so check them all. Assure your blade track is
correct and that the flybar is evenly adjusted so that when the flybar is level the attachment point of the
blades is also level. Serious vibrations from bent shafts, damaged blades or flybar that can cause an "out
of balance" problem and in some cases being out of trim, all can create this annoying problem on both the
Blade CX / CX2 and Lama V3 / V4. This also applies to about EVERY coaxial out there

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